What’s going on in the brow world, besides for the stunning Cara Delevingne furrowing her hirsute planks at us? Eugenia Weston, the Emmy-nominated celebrity makeup artist with her well-known cosmetics line SENNA, gave a packed room of attendees at IMATS-LA (International Makeup Artistry Trade Show) how-to’s on creating the “classic” brow during her demo.
“Not only do brows help to define one’s face,” said Ms. Weston, “but we recognize each other by our brows.” A well-groomed brow can be anti-aging with the lift it gives and can make one’s eyes appear larger. Ms. Weston provides a way for everyone, artist and amateur, to achieve the look.
BROW CREATION – THE ARTIST’S WAY
On stage, Ms. Weston found the points on her model’s brow that are key to shaping it. Using her brow powder brush as a ruler, she made a line from her right tear duct straight up to the brow to establish her point of departure. She then made a small mark with a stick highlighter to show this point. The second key point was found by holding the brow brush vertically from the outer iris (model looks straight ahead) to the brow to indicate where the arch should be (also marked). Lastly, she held the brush from the model’s LEFT tear duct, over the nose bridge and diagonally up the right brow to the arch to show where the brow needed to be filled in (line drawn with highlighter).
Ms. Weston’s approach is to create a natural-looking brow and, “…to copy the shape of the brow hairs.” Using the marks/line she made, she used brow powder on her model applying it in short, feathery strokes with her brow brush all the way up to the arch and down to the tail of the brow. To create texture for the brow, she used brow wax, which can be gently stamped on the hair. Then she brushed the brow hair using a spoolie to blend the products with the hair and have directional continuity. Another way to work with brow wax is to mix it with the brow powder before applying it to the brow. Either way, the last step was using tinted brow fix to help define brows further (SENNA’s brow fix has hair-like fibers in the formula). Tinted brow fix also diminishes the appearance of gray brow hair.
THE BROW BARBER
Since brow balance is important, Ms. Weston advised, “Make sure brows are on the same level. An artist might have to tweeze above or below (called “grazing”) the brow to make them even.” Again, Ms. Weston uses a stick highlighter to mark the area than needs tweezing. “If you don’t take out stray hair, you will take away from the look of the arch.”
The next step is using a spoolie to brush the eyebrow hair up so she can trim what appears outside the line she wants to retain for the brow. Only cuticle scissors with a tapered tip are used so there are no accidents. Ms. Weston always uses a tweezer she created with a very small tip to grab small hair with ease. One surprising hair grooming tip was, “Trim the colic near the nose. It is better to have short hair there than none at all.”
A nice alternative for those who find creating a perfectly-arched brow a little daunting is SENNA’s Form-A-Brow stencil kit, which Ms. Weston demo’ed on stage.
First, a brow powder or a palette of three (mix them to create a more natural look) is needed, one that closely matches your own brow color. Included are four plastic stencils ranging from thin to large and thick, and one will fit almost everyone. Look in the mirror to select the right stencil, one that will be the the most complementary to your eyes and overall face. Use the three-point brow measurements (mentioned above) to help you make your best guess, although this is not necessary.
Once a brow shape is selected, line up the clear stencil in vertical alignment with one tear duct. Press the stencil against the face and it will show what area needs to be filled in. Hold the stencil in place. Working on the model, Ms. Weston loaded her brush with brow powder. She then filled in the open part of the stencil with the powder, going back over it a few times with fresh powder. Voila – a classic brow in mere second. Flip the stencil over and use it the same way for the other eye. The results are amazing and really quick.
Added bonus: to help with tweezing, one can use the darkest color in SENNA’s three-color brow powder kit along with the stencil to create a dark brow shape. This will make it easier to see which hair should be removed. Then tweeze away any hair that is outside the stenciled shape you have just created.
Whether you take the time to create your own brows freehand or use a stencil, it is always worth the extra trouble to maintain a nicely-arched, tamed face-framer. Ms. Weston’s methods and her products sure make it easier.
SIDEBAR: Wanting to make all women look more beautiful, Ms. Weston is involved with the American Cancer Society’s “Look Good, Feel Better” program, a wonderful way for people with cancer to get help creating new makeup and hair styles. You can find the program at: http://lookgoodfeelbetter.org